The Slippery Slope of Olive Oils

ECLECTIC EPICURE

Olive oil is one of those ingredients that you know is healthy for you and that adds quality to your cooking, but, alas, most of us are pretty ignorant about when it comes to distinguishing which one to use.

Virgin, extra virgin, pure, light, extra light — the various classifications of olive oil sound like they are descriptions of a young woman’s virtue, but, in fact, they are determined by how the oil is managed during its extraction process.

“The key determinant for an extra virgin olive oil is that it is the oil extracted during the first pressing of the cooked olive mush of pulp and seeds,” explained gastronome and general manager of gourmet importer Viniter Alessandro Picone Morelli during an olive oil tasting fundraiser organized last week by the Charity Coalition.

“The mush can be pressed up to seven times, but only the first pressing can be labeled as extra virgin.”

Picone Morelli went on to say that extra virgin olive oil is considered the best because it tends to have more flavor and aroma than oil derived from subsequent pressings, which usually entail the use of water and other additives to help extract the emollient.

But Picone Morelli also said that where the olives were grown (terrain) and the particular type of olive (there are more than 800 registered varieties), as well as the curing process, can play a significant role in determining the oil’s flavor, aroma and texture.

Currently, there are about 800 million commercial olive trees spread across 9.5 million hectares of groves, and about 98 percent of those groves are located in Mediterranean countries, he said.

About 80 percent of commercial olives end up as oil, while the remaining 20 percent are processed as table olives.

“Spain is the largest producer of olives, cranking out about 7 million tons of the fruit each year,” Picone Morelli said.

“The second-largest producer is Italy, and coming in third is Greece.”

Picone Morelli said that Mexico produces a small amount of olive oil, as do California and Chile.

“Basically, olives need warm temperate climates, much like grapes, so where you have vineyards, you usually also have olive groves,” he said.

During the Charity Coalition tasting, four different types of extra virgin olive oil were presented, each from a different country.

The first oil, from Spain, had a sharp, robust flavor and a warm golden color.

Typical of a Spanish oil, it also had strong vegetable undertones and a slight herbal aftertaste.

The second oil was a pricey artisan Mexican oil from Baja California with a very light color and woody aroma.

This oil had far less flavor than its Spanish counterpart.

Oil Three was a Chilean olive oil that was notably sweeter than the previous oils, with hints of nuts and spices.

And Oil Four had a lime green hue and a distinctive grassy flavor with hints of eucalyptus that lingered on the tongue.

It was an unfiltered Italian extra virgin that Picone Morelli said was the best of the four oils.

“Olive oils, like wine and coffees, have different flavors and qualities, so if you take cooking seriously, you might want to have a variety of extra virgin oils on hand to suit your particular cooking needs,” Picone Morelli said.

He said that an oil that may taste good on bread may not be as tasty when served in a salad, or vice versa.

“But at the end of the day, your choice of oils depends on your palette and preferences,” Picone Morelli said.

“Choose an olive oil you like, but don’t be afraid to try new varieties.”

The Charity Coalition provides material assistance to 12 charities, including: the American Benevolent Society (ABS), which offers supports to U.S. citizens living in Mexico and others in need; the Asociación Franciscana, which shelters more than 1,800 stray dogs and cats; the Fundación ABC, which assists those in need with medical issues in cooperation with the ABC Medical Center; the Fundación Barra Mexicana, which assists people and institutions with legal guidance; the Fundación Dar y Amar, a residence for adolescent mothers and their children; the Fundación de Cáncer de Mama, (Fucam), a hospital that treats financially strapped patients with breast cancer; the Fundación Domus Alipio, a home for HIV-positive widows and their children; the Fundación Hogar Dulce Hogar, a home for orphaned and displaced children; the Fundación Mexicana del Riñón, which assists people with kidney failure; the Fundación para la Asistencia Educativa, a preschool and kindergarten for children living in and around the Chimalhuacán garbage dump; and the Casa de la Sal community center for children and adults who are HIV-positive.

 More Information

 The Charity Coalition is comprised of a group of expat and Mexican volunteers who actively participate with local charities by providing material and moral support, as well as assistance through specific fundraising events throughout the year.

The Coalition was established in early 2009 with the objective of understanding each individual charity’s needs, fundraising and donation tactics in order to avoid duplication of efforts and oversaturation of events on similar dates.

 The Coalition’s offices are located inside Union Church at Avenida Paseo de la Reforma 1870 in suite 206 (tel: 6840-5905).  

For more information, to join the Coalition or to attend its events, consult the organization’s webpage at www.charity-coalition.org.

 The organization can also be reached through its Facebook page at CharityCoalition or via Twitter at @CharityCMexico.

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