The Scent of a Woman

WOMEN’S WORLD

It’s a woman’s personal trademark, her snature attribute, a sensual statement of her identity that lingers even after she has left a room.

And yet, as much as most women love indulging in perfumes, most of us know very little about how they are made and how we should use them for best results.

“Fragrances today encompass a vast realm of options, and we have the choice of using any of them, depending on our personal tastes and the effect we want to create,” explained Dior international fragrance expert Pablo Schenfeld during an exclusive presentation of the brand’s new J’Adore L’Or perfume and J’Adore Huile Divine — both created from rose absolute and jasmine from Grasse — at the Palacio’s de Hierro Polanco’s executive suite.

“There is a significant difference between perfumes, eaux de parfum, eaux de toilette, body sprays, scented creams and body oils. Each of these fragrances works differently, and they have different qualities.”

Schenfeld went on to say that perfumes are made from absolutes and pure perfume essences (a combination of essential oils, absolutes, animal extracts and synthetic fragrances).

(Whereas essential oils are usually produced through steam distillation, absolutes require the use of solvent extraction techniques or enfleurage.)

Because perfumes are the most concentrated of fragrance options, they are usually slightly oiler and last longer than eaux de parfum or toilette water after being applied.

They are also more expensive and usually come in non-spray bottles, to be dabbed on directly to the skin with your fingers.

An eau de parfum, on the other hand, will contain the same perfume essences but in a more diluted form.

And an eau de toilette will contain no absolutes, only essences.

Both eaux de parfum and eaux de toilettes are usually sold in spray bottles and have a shorter life on the skin than perfumes.

“If you want your scent to last, try layering on fragrance, starting with an oil or body cream and following with a perfume or eau de toilette,” Schenfeld said, noting that Dior’s new J’Adore Huile Divine is intended exactly for that purpose, as a prelude to applying J’Adore parfum.

“Always apply your scent directly on your skin, before you get dressed. Perfumes and other fragrances are made to interact with skin, not clothing.”

Schenfeld also warned against spraying perfume or eau de toilette on your hair, since the chemicals in them can damage follicles.

(There are, however, some fragrance products, including by Dior, that are suited for spraying on hair.)

Schenfeld said that how long an individual fragrance will endure on your skin depends on several factors, including the quality of the product (whether it is made from absolutes and essential oils) and your personal body chemistry.

“Oilier skin tends to trap the scent of a quality fragrance, making it last for up to 18 hours,” he said.

“But the same fragrance applied to drier skin will only last about half that time. Since most women’s skin becomes drier as they age, more mature women usually need to apply fragrance more often.”

Choosing a scent can be tricky, as well, Schenfeld said.

The best way to find your ideal fragrance is to start off by deciding if you are looking for a flowery scent, a citrus or fruity aroma, a woodsy bouquet, an oriental or a gourmand.

Schenfeld said that most Mexican women prefer florals — which make up the largest fragrance category — and have been slow to assimilate gourmands, the new scent grouping on the fragrance block. (These scents, first introduced by Clarins and its Thierry Mugler perfume line, incorporate favorite culinary aromas such as vanilla and chocolate.)

Once you have an idea of what kind of scent you want, try testing a couple fragrances out at your favorite department store.

“It is best to do this in the morning, when your sense of smell is still not diluted with the odors of air contamination and daily life,” Schenfeld said.

“And whatever you do, do not rub the fragrance into your skin once it is applied. Fragrances are like subtle symphonies, with opening, middle and closing notes. When you rub a perfume in, you destroy the music of the perfume.”

Instead, Schenfeld said to apply and then walk around the store for a half hour or so, so that the heart notes can open and you can get a full sense of the fragrance’s concerto.

He also advised against trying out more than two fragrances at a time because your nose will become confused and will not be able to distinguish the different notes.

“Whatever fragrance you choose, it should reflect your own personality and mood,” he said.

“It used to be that a woman would stick with a single scent all her life. But in today’s world, the average woman has about 15 fragrances she uses regularly. Nowadays, women consider a fragrance to be a part of her attire, and just like they have an entire wardrobe to choose from in terms of clothing, they maintain a wardrobe of scents.”

But Schenfeld warned against keeping perfumes and other fragrances too long once the bottle has been opened.

Maintained in a cool, dark area inside the box it came in, Schenfeld said that you can usually expect a quality fragrance to last about two or three years.

And, despite old wives’ tales to the contrary, Schenfeld said that it is a mistake to keep perfumes in the refrigerator.

“Fragrances are made to be kept in room temperatures, not in the icebox and not in the bathroom, where they can deteriorate due to steam and light,” he said.

Finally, Schenfeld said that you should enjoy your fragrance, using it as an extension of your personality.

“Aromas and fragrances are a fundamental part of our individual personas and memories. They convey sentiments and spark emotions,” he said.

“They are a reflection of who we are and what we feel, so find a scent that best mirrors your identity and that you adore wearing.”

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